Last Sunday, I attended a three-self (government approved) church near campus. A friend and I arrived at 10am sharp, only to find we were late. Crowds of Chinese were waiting outdoors either to be let in one-by-one to the sanctuary where room could be found or to be ushered into the overflow room. We opted for the overflow room where we stood in front of a small television screen displaying lyrics to all the Chinese hymns and occasionally panning out at the packed sanctuary audience singing along with the choir. By the time the pastor began preaching on Jesus' flesh and blood out of John 6, the overflow room began to feel like the Beijing subway at rush hour. A woman standing behind me seemed to breathe down my neck as she proclaimed "阿门!阿门!
Amen! Amen!" to the pastor's words. At the end of the service, the whole congregation sang a welcome song to the newcomers and I left surprised at myself for having understood a good proportion of the service and even more so by the sheer scale and fervor surrounding the whole experience: a sort of mix between the enormity of American-style mega churches and the population explosion of China.
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| Beijing Haidian Christian Church. We were a little worried we wouldn't be able to find the building, but that didn't turn out to be much of a problem. |
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| Everyone's attention on this little overflow room TV. |
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| On the way out after service. |
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| Can't really read my church bulletin. |
Later this week, I attended an event at the
Bookworm International Literary Festival, featuring Mark O'Neill introducing his new book,
My Missionary Grandfather, on the missionary work of his grandfather, Frederick O'Nell, an Irish Presbyterian. O'Neill spoke and showed pictures of the emotional and physical hardship which existed for his grandfather and many missionaries to China at the time. Boxer Rebellion violence, harsh Manchurian winters, separation from family, the renouncement of a comfortable middle-class life, etc. In the Q&A session which followed, many people seemed to want to discuss the contemporary impact of such missionary work in China. Mark O'Neill consistently pointed out the incredulity of the Chinese church today, how it went completely underground, surviving the exile of foreign missionaries and the Cultural Revolution, only to flourish in the hands of indigenous Chinese leadership. I had heard, and even seen for myself, the reality of Chinese Christianity's growth in many religious settings. However, this was the first time I heard it discussed in a secular space with some really high-up expatriates (ambassadors, diplomats, and other sophisticated looking folk) making comments I would expect to hear in, say, a Christian missions conference. I even found out later from a conversation with Mark O'Neill's Cantonese-speaking wife that Mark, himself, is not a religious person. All this in an officially atheist country made for some interesting sociological theorizing.
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| Introducing Mark O'Neill. |
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| Future ambassador, Lily, with the current Irish ambassador. |
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| Bought the cheaper Chinese translation of the book. |
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| There was a long line for book-signings, but I managed to snap a quick picture with the author. |
I had another encounter with religion in China this week, this time in a much more traditional setting. After another day enjoying street food at 南锣鼓巷Nanluoguxiang, I went with some Japanese friends to visit the 雍和宫Lama Tibetan Buddhist temple, another piece of religion which managed to survive the Cultural Revolution. Tibetan Buddhism is said to be on the rise among new Chinese upper-class, as are many other religions in this country. I walked out of the subway station and was immediately greeted by hawkers trying to sell us their incense sticks and then entered the temple to be flooded with the scent of that same incense smoldering worshipers' wishes to the gods. Picture taking was prohibited in most parts of the temple, but the exquisite detail of design in the buildings and shrines made the temple a worthwhile place to visit for both tourists and worshipers alike.
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| Front entrance. |
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| Walkway to the temple. Japanese people sho cute ^_^. |
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| Outside a shrine. |
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| My one forbidden picture. |
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| The tithe offering? |
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| Tourist info. |
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| Endless bowing everywhere. |
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I couldn't take a picture of it, but Lama temple had a huge Maitreya statue about 5 stories high, all carved out of a single sandalwood tree according to this sign.
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And some other non-religious things which happened this week:
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| Free drinks for the ladies on International Women's Day! |
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| I joined in on a Kung Fu club meeting and (almost) mastered some Tai Qi moves . |
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| I will probably never get sick of the street food at 南锣鼓巷Nanluoguxiang. This here is the delicious stinky tofu. |
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| Meals with friends. Hi Shirley! |
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| Visiting cute DIY craft stores and not buying anything. |
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| Celebrating my suite mate, Sally's, birthday with a western dinner. |
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| Chinese people are into punishments whenever you lose a game, my Chinese teacher included. Here she's blasting "Call Me Maybe" on her phone and forcing the losing group from a taboo-like Chinese game to dance in public. |
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| 口语 Spoken Chinese class requires presentations on current events in our country. I gave one on gun control reform. |
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| Not an uncommon sight, but I'm impressed every time a see the big loads migrant workers bike with. |